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A whole new world (Jordan day 3 & 4ish)

Tuesday 26th November – Wednesday 27th November 2019

Get up, get up, get up!! It’s 7am and time to go, yeah that’s completely opposite to my level of enthusiasm! Not that I wasn’t keen to see more of Jordan, but my snot level had hit a new high and I was feeling especially crapola. But enough whining, today we were heading to Aqaba to pick up the rest of the tour who were finishing up a leg in Egypt. Now when Donnie said the previous day we were heading to Aqaba, not sure if it was his accent or the snot in my head but I thought he said Agrabah, Aladdin’shome!! Hadn’t quite figured out that I was in the wrong country for that but whatevs. But to get to Aqaba there was 5 hours on the bus first, with some pretty countryside that my snot infused face didn’t quite take full advantage of looking at. There was the big bus as promised though so 5 hours of napping was a dream!!

It was when we were pulling into Aqaba that I realised Aladdin did not live here! But that momentary disappointment was replaced by palms trees and green and my favourite, the ocean!!

With Abdul giving us a tight BOTB time and not being sure where Donnie lay with it, we legged it to the beach and were greeted by blue waters, palm trees and the most rubbish filled sand I’ve ever seen in my life! Yeah, ocean pretty, beach not so much. We did manage to find a dock wall thingy with direct access to the ocean so shoes off and dangled our feet in the water, hello ocean, I’ve missed you!

So an amazing thing about the port city of Aqaba on the Red Sea is that from this one place, you can see four countries! Yep, really cool!! So standing on the beach if I look to the right, there’s the shore of Egypt and to the far right are the hills of Israel.

Then when I look to the left, there’s Saudi Arabia (taken from a video cos snot face forgot to take a picture) and of course at my feet Jordan!!

So if you see a country but don’t actually step foot in it, does it count as having been there?? No, not when I put it like that. Anyhoo, after too many selfies cos it takes a year to get one good shot with this snot head of mine, we legged it back to the bus, with a quick stop for wine for our nights desert safari. Only running 5 minutes late the four of us girls were kinda shocked to find the bus gone. Hmmm. I’ve seen tour guides leave people behind before but not for being 5 minutes late!! Luckily I did listen when Donnie handed out his mobile number so using the last of my phone credit called him only to find out he’d left early to pick up the Egypt group, apparently he texted everyone, funny how none of us four got the text!! Anyhoo, taking a moment to grab a cold drink while waiting for the bus, we were joined by a few others cos apparently they didn’t get the text either. Abdul never left us, Abdul 6, Donnie -1.

Anyhoo, it was desert time and now with a jam packed bus we were off to Wadi Rum. Unfortunately for us that started the day in Amman, Wadi Rum is only 3 hours from there so we’d done a major detour, instead of it taking us 3 hours to get to Wadi Rum, it took 10. Yeah Aqaba was nice but would have rathered more desert time. Anyhoo, lots of those on this trip so far, pulling into Wadi Rum put me back in a good mood, felt like we’d just rocked up on a distant planet from Star Wars! Now I’m just name dropping, some of the new Rise of Skywalker movie was filmed there, so was The Martian starring Matt Damon. Red sand, enormous oddly beautiful shaped rocks and of course, camels!

Arriving at camp there was a quick toilet stop then straight into our Jeep safari, unlike in Morocco where you sit inside the car, these ones are utes with seats in the tray, soooo much more fun!!! The views across the desert are amazing, the rock formations are like nothing I’ve ever seen. I mean I’ve seen a few big rocks, but not all together like this and on this scale. I know, they probs look like this in the Aussie outback, really should explore my home country!!!

After hooning around for a while we stopped at a special rock with drawings on the stone that have been around for thousands of years, the drawings are directions to Petra, so Indiana Jones!! I was confused how they could last so long but the people who drew them were smarty pants and put them in a spot where the elements wouldn’t smash them and erode. Very smart!! Also some time for posed desert snaps, could only hold my arms up for a few seconds before the snot started running down my face!!!

BITJ and more hooning before arriving at an obvious tourist spot cos there was a hell of a line up of cars. More drawings in stone but these ones were of people, Lawrence of Arabia and some other King. Did anyone else just think Lawrence of Arabia was just a movie?? Didn’t realize the dude was real, must watch that movie. This spot was super fun and pretty, and even though I had zero energy I followed Liz, climbing some rocks for a gorgeous view, Wadi Rum is spectacular. A different kind of desert to the Sahara but they each hold their own!

After some coercing it was BITJ and to a spot to watch a spectacular sunset. Sunsets in the desert, nothing quite like it!!

Unfortunately we then had to go back to camp, really would have loved more time to explore the desert, the Jeep tour felt like a teaser! Anyhoo, back at camp we got our alloted rooms, got to choose to bunk with Liz, these camp rooms/tents had little en-suites, nice to not have to leg it across the desert in the middle of the night for the loo! And now, time to chillax. Out came the wine, down went more cold and flu tablets and I made a real effort to talk to people. I’d been feeling so shite I hadn’t made the time to really talk to everyone and find out their stories, also because when you’re sick, people kinda avoid you which is fair, when you’re traveling you do not want to be ill, you miss out as per Budapest! Would have avoided me too!! But I tried, chatting over a wine while standing in the desert camp and waiting for our dinner to be dug up. Yeah, this finally was traditional Jordanian style, like a hangi in New Zealand, they bury a basket of meat and veg in hot coals in the sand where it cooks into awesome yumminess. And by gosh it was good!!! And like Morocco, the kitty cats joined us for dinner!

After dinner, it was dancing time!! I love me a traditional dance and no snot head was gonna stop me. So I danced, we all danced however they only played about 3 songs, not sure if we sucked so bad they didn’t want to do more or if that’s all our money paid for! Either way, I was pretty tired so after listening to, I wanna say a sitar?? some kind of Jordanian version of a guitar while sitting around a camp fire, I retired to bed, I did have to be up at 5 for a camel ride after all!

Up quite literally before the sun, we ventured just outside of camp to find our camels just patiently waiting. Camels are kinda always patient huh? Just kinda sit there chewing and spitting occasionally. Anyhoo, only a handful of us chose to get up a stupid o’clock for the ride, knowing how epic the one in Morocco was, I didn’t want to miss out. Ever so awkwardly up again, there’s no graceful way to do it on a camel, we headed I really don’t know where, forward outside the camp. About 15 minutes later, not far from camp, we disembarked to watch the sunrise and by gosh it was pretty. Sunrises in the desert are just something else.

So something kinda weird happened while we were riding, ok, little weird, lots annoying!! These two Japanese ladies walked the whole time in front of us taking pictures, kinda hard to enjoy the serenity when you can hear the snaps of an SLR and chit chat the whole time. At first it was funny, then got real annoying. Kinda like camel paparazzi. And then when we stopped to watch the sunrise, they stood in front of us taking more pictures, was lucky to get some shots without them in it. One of the dudes tried to give them his email to at least get copies of the trillion of the pics they took but no can do apparently. Anyhoo, for the next half hour we just stood around while the camel guide dudes sat and smoked and chatted. Then we finally got back on and went back to camp, now it was daylight I was mostly looking at all the rubbish in the sand. Us humans are AH’s polluting like we do. Overall the camel ride was meh, I mean the sunrise was nice but would have liked to ride the camels for more than half the time at least, and go somewhere at least more than a stones throw from camp. It’s hard, Morocco was so brilliant, I’m comparing and while Jordan is bloody amazing, the service of the tour company isn’t measuring up. Anyhoo….

Back at camp we tried to shower but the dribble of cold water out the taps meant we were still camel stinky. Shout out to the person in the next door tent who showered for half hour and used all the water, gotta love tours!! At brekkie, which was a massive smorgasbords of bready cake things and kitty cats, everyone was complaining about getting eaten alive my mozzies, I hadn’t properly looked in the mirror but upon inspecting my hands, yep, red spots all over, I must have been tasty!! A pit stop in the bath room before BOTB and my face looked like a 13 year old teenager with acne. Great, I’m gonna look gorgeous for Petra…

Petra was a good 5 hours away, to break up the trip a little we stopped at this old train, just right there in the middle of the desert. Donnie, who I’ve just remembered is called Osama, but will continue to call Donnie cos I’m an arse, told us that there used to be a railway from Istanbul to Mecca, but the Arabic people sabotaged it when trying to drive out the Ottomans. Still no idea who the ottomans were, must google!

Being Petra bound I was excited AF, this is why I came to Jordan!! And when we stopped to see the canyon of the crescent moon from afar, I felt like a little kid at Christmas!!! It’s Petra, right there!!!!!

Oh Sahara! (Morocco day 7 & 8)

Friday 4th October – Saturday 5th October 2019

Today was the day I knew I’d be pinching myself a million times over, today we were going to the Sahara desert. The bloody Sahara!!!!! Never thought in this lifetime I’d be lucky enough to see the Sahara, something I’d heard of as a child but never thought I’d see for reals. Feel like I need to break into a chorus of thanks to all the people who have given me this wonderful life but they know who they are and hopefully I have thanked them enough! In case I haven’t, THANK YOU!!

Usually a BOTB call for 6.45am would fill me with dread but when you’re Sahara bound, pretty sure I bounced out of bed. Or just wasn’t as grumpy as I usually am!! Brekkie, packed and BOTB to a gorgeous sunrise that unfortunately doesn’t look as pretty out of the window of a bus!

Being desert bound, as expected the countryside got a little less green and a bit more, well, deserty but by gosh, still as beautiful as ever. To keep us entertained, it was once again Abdul the legend up for the act. Now I can’t exactly pinpoint when he became a legend, it was the little things he did like learning our names, his dad jokes, his funny laugh and his Yallah, but mostly it was his passion and love for his country. Having a tour guide who takes pride in showing you his homeland makes a tour one thousand times more enjoyable!! Anyhoo, our first stop on our looooong trip to the desert was a little village that looked like it belonged in Switzerland, not Morocco! A little alpine village that served as Morocco’s ski resort. Yeah I had that screwed up confused face too, Morocco has ski resorts???? Turns out to get to the Sahara you gotta go over the Atlas Mountains and not just one set, gotta go over the Mid Atlas Mountains and the High Atlas Mountains, I guess they couldn’t think of more imaginative names for them?? So our stop in Ifrane, the mountain village introduced us to something new in Morocco, the cold!!! Having been over heated most the trip it was nice to feel the cold mountain air, for about 5 minutes til I was over it and ready for the cosy warm bus again. Explains the lack of pictures…

Quickly BOTB and we quickly left Switzerland behind and was back in desert looking Morocco. Then out of nowhere, the hills started to have Arabic writing on them. Like big enough that if I read Arabic I’d know what it said. I’m still confused how the hell they do that. Abdul explained they did it with wheat but please tell me more, how do they get the letters so big? How do they mark it out? How do they get it so perfect??? If I wasn’t on a plane i’d google it and tell ya…

The legend explained the writing says “God, motherland and King”, very patriotic. Not a message from the aliens as I was starting to think! More gorgeous countryside and it was time for another pit stop. Just a petrol station, no Switzerland this time. They did however have a range of treats not found in the land of kangaroos, like ketchup pepitas and some weird arse flavour of Monster energy drink. Neither were good. Now I mentioned the trip to the desert was long and while I can’t recall how many hours, something like 7 sounds about right. Luckily Morocco has plenty to keep us entertained along the way. Like this pretty dam just in the middle of nowhere, being as beautiful as ever.

And this massive army base just spouting out of the desert again in the middle of nowhere. Maybe it’s where they keep the aliens??

Then my personal favourite, pulling up into a valley of palm trees. The location on my picture says Aoufous, so let’s go with that. This time we managed to get Abdul to star in and join us for a few snaps, gotta put a face to the legendary, wait for it… Abdul. Also managed to have some fun ourselves. Most fun was still had by Abdul who managed to get a piggy back from Aleesha back to the bus!!

At this stage, it was only just hitting lunch time, although somehow we were already three meals in?!? Our lunch stop at a cafe by a pool was lovely and all but we were all just getting antsy for the desert. Sahara where are you already?? I know good things come to those that wait but I’m not well known for my patience!! Finally, Abdul announced that we are close to our hotel that’s rated 1,000 stars. Yeah that’s code for sleeping outside! I was expecting tents pitched, sleeping on the floor, being kinda cold and uncomfortable but being ok with that because it was the bloody Sahara!!! Boy were we all surprised to get to the place where we were “camping”. Air conditioned main lobby, beautiful gardens, pool, WiFi and most importantly, real beds!!! We were glamping to say the least! Proper rooms with walls, they may not have been out of brick but there were walls and doors and real bathrooms and showers. To say that we were all relieved is an understatement!!

Unloading into our “tents” it was a quick change of clothes to ready ourselves for our Sahara camel trek. Yeah I could hardly believe I was doing that either!! In the hotel lobby Abdul and his cohorts helped us wrap our scarfs into turbans then it was out the back of the hotel to meet our rides.

Upon getting to “camp” we’d had a glimpse of the dunes but it wasn’t until we met our camels that the absolute gloriousness of the Sahara desert was upon us. Massive dunes and a blue sky that contrasted with the red sand so beautifully that we were speechless. Well, we were, the camels not so much. They like to chat!! I hadn’t ridden a camel for a while, not sure I can even recall when I last did, only to know that I have and the getting up and down is quite the carnival ride. Kyles of course in her perfect desert outfit did it with grace, I may have yelped…

Now some how I was lucky enough to be at the front of our camel line, if that’s what it’s called, so I could take in all the glory of the Sahara. I really can’t explain in words how beautiful it is only to say you could not wipe the smile off my face and every second was a pinch me moment that I could hardly believe I was lucky enough to behold. Beautiful, glorious, amazing, stunning, wonderful, not enough words to describe.

After trotting along for about an hourish, being quite comfortable I might add, we stopped at our destination to watch the sunset. I thanked Marlboro for lugging me along, couldn’t have been easy!!

Remember the gorgeous sand dunes I mentioned earlier?? The top of one of those was where we could watch the sunset. My unfit meatball body was not ready for the hike up the sand dunes, the worst torture imaginable on unconditioned thighs but like hell I was going to miss watching the sunset over the Sahara!! And by god, running up Everest would have been worth it for these views!

I think you can agree that the desert is so stunning that I’m forgiven for the ridiculous amount of selfies! It was a once in a lifetime (but hopefully not!) experience so there is no way I don’t want all the pictures as memories for when I’m old n grey and in my rocking chair. After having indulged in all the selfies and pics to last a lifetime, while also taking time out to appreciate the sunset and miraculous place we were so lucky enough to be, there was the getting down to deal with. Some chose just to take their chance and run, those of us with shonky knees chose the slow and sturdy way!! Ads was one of the fast arse ones with his Spider-Man legs which meant he was able take a shot of us snails on the way down, there we are!!!

BOM (got that one mum??) and we meandered back to camp as the sun sank into the dunes and the stars came out to delight us. Hands down that was one of the most amazing and memorable experiences of my life. Pretty sure that when life goes to shit in the future, I’ll be able to think of that afternoon in the Sahara and smile like there’s no tomorrow. Still can’t believe I got to do that and once again am grateful to those that helped me find my way to the Sahara!

Back at camp we were all high on the afternoon’s adventures (not the hash), the chatter and laughter amongst the group was infectious. But it was dinner time. After a day eating like a hobbit, I wasn’t overly hungry but the smorgasbord of food meant that of course I ate. I’m Italian, I was born to eat. Also English and born to whinge in case you hadn’t noticed!! Anyway, the yummy food of more than just tagine thank goodness was washed down with gin along with a side of gin… we were all getting into the party mood that night so when the drums around the camp fire started, we were our own tribe dancing around and laughing. I remember a lot of laughing that night, it’ll defs go down as one of the best nights of my life.

Once the band finished up, or escaped, not sure which, we were up to our own devices for entertainment. Of course I had a go on the drums, sounded like crap but who cares, fun is fun!!

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All danced out we gathered around to chill and reminisce. Which lasted about 5 minutes before a game of never have I ever started. There may have also been some hash from Chefs going around but what happens on tour stays on tour. Ask me no questions I tell no lies.

The next morning was heaven sent, not only did we have the most memorable previous day but we weren’t required to be human until 10am. For those who over drank, over danced and may have had a little chucky, the late start was a gift. Which literally only lasted until 10am cos then it was into our jeeps for a desert safari. Over hills fast and around quick corners all in sand is exactly what the doctor ordered after a big night…

But somehow the desert air cured all hangovers and at our pit stop in the middle of the Sahara, we were all smiles and once again in amazement at the beauty of the desert.

Special mention to Connor, Amy’s husband and half of the American travel blogging couple who went above and beyond to get the most epic photo. Here’s a video of how and the final pic I stole from their blog!!

Back in our landcruisers, cos they aren’t the same as jeeps, we trekked through the Sahara to a nomad village, one that allows tourists. This family lives on the plains of the Sahara, trekking to the closest town once a week for supplies, but otherwise self sufficient, building their oven in the earth, keeping animals for milk and probs dinner, no electricity and using what the great earth provides them. Now whether these guys actually did all that or were just set up for us tourists, who knows but it sure looked authentic!!!

After having some time to wander around the nomads living area, we gathered in a large tent for Abdul to show us how they make Moroccan tea. All the other places we’d had tea cheated and used a kettle. Here they boiled the water, let it stew, then reboiled and strained it, I think… geez bananas I don’t really remember and I couldn’t take notes while sitting crossed legged in a tent, I’m not like other women, I’m not good at multi tasking. We all got a taste and it was nice but in all honesty, I’ll stick to my western coffee, never have been much of a tea drinker. Back in our cruisers through the desert to our next stop at a renowned musical band. I remember Abdul explained they were quite well known but can’t recall how or why. Of course they got our hips shaking again and the abundance of my chebs meant I was pulled up again to dance, but managed to escape back to my seat to watch the others get into the groove!!

As good as the music was, it was damn hot in the room and not all of us were appreciative of symbols clashing and drums beating given the night we’d had!! I think Abdul got the message and herded us back into our cruisers heading back to camp. Of course it wasn’t just a normal drive back to camp, once again through dunes, past loads of camels and around desert hotels that seemed to spring out of nowhere!!

Back at the hotel and finally, after two non starters, it was pool time. Yes my bathes were overly revealing and I wore a gym top over them but who cares when you’re in cool waters in the middle of the desert. Probs would have jumped in with my pjs on if I had to. And with ice cold beers delivered into our hands while in the pool, it was the place of dreams. Ok I may be over exaggerating but after a hot day cruising the desert, it was pretty damn good. I think we stayed in until our hands and feet looked like 100 year olds then had a quick shower and back into the dunes to watch the sunset over the beautiful Sahara. While waiting for the sun to go down in all its glory, the amazing Emma got her sand surfing skills on, there were drinks and group pics and all the laughing!! Such an awesome group to hang out with!

Another dinner and more dancing around the fire, although not as epic as the night before, bit more low key but still awesome fun all the same!! With an earlyish bedtime, I laid in bed being grateful to be in one of the most beautiful places on earth with such an amazing group of people, it really did feel like a dream. Still does when I think back on it.

Home of punk

Even though the previous day was nothing but naps, somehow I still slept in. Well at least a sleep in by Kylie’s standards, I think she was itching for me to get my arse out of bed and kick off our Saturday. When I finally emerged around 10 (I call a sleep in past noon), there was no way we’d get ready and tubed to Notting Hill markets before they closed at 1pm, and actually have enough time to enjoy them. Next best option, Camden Markets.

Arriving with a grumbling stomach was not a good idea. So many delicious food stalls with yummers from all corners of the earth. But there was no going past a Yorkshire Pudding Burrito. Roast beef, stuffing, potatoes, greens and gravy all wrapped in a larger than life Yorkshire pudd. Kid you not, I was making mmmm sounds as I ate. Or at least my stomach was. Soooo good, how do we not have these in Australia? Hmmm, food truck idea…

With appetites satisfied, it was time to wonder aimlessly through the lanes and buy things we didn’t need. The markets themselves are glorious, old red brick buildings, tunnels and open air stalls, so beautiful that Kyles called it – not the next best option after Notting Hill, better than.

Falling in love with a million little things, it was a lesson in restraint. I really didn’t NEED a wooden gin serving tray, a black cape jacket or a 60s style handbag. Just really really really wanted them. But I do prefer to spend my money on experiences rather than material things. And spend $$ on gin, gin makes some experiences bearable. Plus, with still over a week of my trip left, I knew if I shopped up a storm I’d be surviving on a diet of dust for the rest of the trip… but I did come across a Levi’s jean jacket with silver sequin angel wings that I couldn’t walk past… too old for sequins, maybe. Do I care? Not one bit!! Absolutely loved the markets, lots of things I just knew you’d never see in AUS, but of course, a lot of the stock standard things every second stall seems to have.

The highlight and possibly one of the most super cool stores in the entire world, Cyberdog. A raver’s dream, all things neon and glowing, everything you could ever dream of needing for a music festival or rave. Will be back before Glastonbury to stock up on flashing mouth lights, glowing eye lashes and neon fur coats.

After what felt like 50,000 steps, we took a drinks break at the funkiest bar ever. Exposed brick, neon lights, retro posters and arch windows. Would love to teleport that bar to Adelaide.

Having our fix of the markets, it was a leisurely stroll around the streets of Camden. So different to any place you’d find in Australia – well, at least the places I’ve been to. Shops selling everything from pot flavoured lollipops and chocolate to punk rock Doc Martens that’d make any Ramones fan proud. The place has a life of its own, an absolute buzz which explains the hoards of people packing the streets. Loved Camden, it’s added to the shortlist of places I could live if (or when) I move to London. Understandable why the mega superstar Amy Winehouse lived here.

With a 40th birthday to prep and pamper for, we reluctantly headed back to Brixton, having to leg it to a tube station further down the track. The Camden station was so busy they had to close it temporarily. Could you ever imagine that happening in AUS?

Back in Brixton we had the luxury of time to get ready for the 40th birthday of Dylan, a friend of Kylie’s and her house mates Kam and Sean. Wish I’d taken more pics of Kyles and I looking glam for the night, having been a super annoying tourist and taking millions of photos every minute, for some reason, only took one pic the whole night. The photo booth at the party got a good workout but with so many peeps per shot, kinda forgot to grab any evidence for myself.

The party itself was at a gorgeous bar overlooking the city. Once again, no pics. Why oh why. Fabulous night, Dylan’s partner Joe put together the sweetest video of birthday messages from his family and friends in Brissie and of course the music was amazing so we danced the night away. Loved meeting so many new people, felt like maybe, just maybe, I could start a new life here. Or get on with making the current one even more amazing.

Saturday 12th January 2019.

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