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Glasgow

I’m sorry…

Some days you wake up and the body just says NO… yeah, one of those days! Luckily my pleading message to Kyles to come back at 10.30am instead of 9 to check out was heard. After once again doing life admin to get electricity connected I had the pleasure of going back to sleep!! Too bad my mind had other plans and woke me up half hour later to go explore Glasgow, no point wasting a day in bed, god knows we’ve already had plenty of recovery days… said my head, body still said no.

Being an unapologetic tourist, I had asked the lovely Scottish lass at the distillery what her fave things to do in Glasgow were and had a shortlist for today’s adventures. Given my morning laziness, first stop was a lunch time pie, pint and play at Oran Mor, a theatre in the West End. My lack of brain power meant I didn’t check times or schedules so I rocked up only to find that the pie/pint/okay thingo doesn’t start til Feb, oops. Place was gorgeous nonetheless and made a pretty decent cortado.

Back onto my lists from Trip Advisor and the whiskey lass, based on proximity, ie across the road, I headed to the Botanic Gardens. Correction, I started heading there where the skies opened up and I ducked into Matilda Cafe for another coffee while it passed. The sun shone through and it was back into it – I had a feeling that if I stopped too long at any one place today I’d probs fall asleep in my seat! So tired. No rest for the wicked.

Only a few short steps into the garden and I was mesmerised. Crisp green lawns, gorgeous Horse Chestnut trees (had to research that one!) and beautiful glasshouses shining in the sun. Had a little chuckle to myself that the glasshouses looked like President Snow’s from Hunger Games, and then added another point to my nerd tally. Wandering around I felt like I’d entered the garden of Eden, but hopefully without the wicked snake… I spent about 2 hours just walking the different paths and muttering away to myself about how beautiful it was. Stu the tour guide mentioned that Scotland has a roaming law where you have the right to pitch a tent anywhere and live, hmmmm, maybe a fancy tent with a bathroom and WiFi and I’d be set for life… really was that stunning.

My encounter with a squirrel was hilarious, the little dude was on the path in front of me so I stopped to take some pics and he just hoppity jumped over to me as squirrels do, and stood at my feet. Little dude was looking at me like he was planning something, I think squirrels are like cats, always planning world domination. Anyway, after a 5 minute stare down and threats of running up my leg, little dude got bored of me and wandered off. Yeah I’m with ya mate.

After wandering down hidden paths past pot smoking school kids and stumbling across gorgeous bridges, I wandered past a wooden bench and like in Notting Hill, it had a dedication. Was not ready for what it said! From playing with squirrels to a being big sook, never read something more true.

Ten steps later and I realised there was a whole row of benches with dedications to loved ones, so beautiful. I’d love for someone to remember me this way, a dedication on a bench overlooking the ocean…

Reading the dedications and being a sooky la la, I pulled myself together after a few weird looks from passerby’s and went for a wander outside the gardens, stumbling once again onto the most beautiful street of houses, it was a sign….

So damn beautiful. I could live here, go to uni at hogwarts, live beside the gardens (or in the gardens), hmmm…

Wandering back down Byres Road and I just casually looked down one of the side streets… and saw this – a gorgeous church surrounded by even more beautiful houses and tree lined streets.

Detouring through the area, I was once again the weirdo muttering WOW at every turn, so so beautiful. Hillhead is now my favourite suburb in the world. And the Hilton Hotel in Hillhead, stunning.

Back done Byres Rd, having missed my pie, I needed food in my belly. While I mostly only mention drool worthy meals, this Smoky Chorizo and Chicken soup pot from Pret gets an honourable mention!! So tasty and only £3. Wish cheap arse chain food was this good in AUS. Oh wait, it’s not so cheap once you convert…

With a PM flight to catch, I knew my wonderful trip in Glasgow was coming to an end. Having glimpsed the magnificence of George Square yesterday, it had to be my final destination. Popping out of the subway at Buchanan St, I stopped in my tracks. Seriously, where was this place hiding on Monday? Google Maps has a lot to answer for. As the main shopping strip, it’s lined by old stunning buildings and all the high end shops, I get what you were talking about Stu and I’m sorry for saying I preferred Edinburgh! The street is stunning, I’ve used that word too much but it’s the only word that encapsulates the show stopping beauty. Lucky for me I kept getting lost so traipsed up the street multiple times on my way to the next stop.

And wow. I think that must have been my hundredth wow for the day. George Square is full of more magnificent buildings and monuments, the dedication to soldiers who fell in the Great War was moving. Been an absolute blubberer today!!

Having had an epic adventure in Glasgow and before bidding adieu, I took a moment for a hot chocolate in Costa Coffee, coincidentally wearing my beanie from the Costa’s! I think I’m funny… Katie did too!

Before meeting up with Kyles for our flight, I had a moment to reflect on my time in Glasgow and realise that I had it all wrong. I’m sorry Glasgow, you’re not dodgy, you’re bloody beautiful. I’ll be back.

P.S. Can’t remember where I saw this but brilliant marketing by the British Army!! Spot on for millennials and women. Well played.

Wednesday 16th January 2019.

Knight in shining armour

Having already slept through one tour, I sure as hell wasn’t going to miss another. But after emailing real estate agents, stylists and property managers I was against the clock and was running between trains to make my 9am pick up at George Square in the centre of Glasgow. I did manage to take 5 seconds to make a mental note of how gorgeous the square was, on the list for tomorrow’s adventures.

Having only booked the tour with Rabbies the day before, a company I knew nothing of, I was a bit skeptical as to whether a) it was a legit tour and b) whether it would go all the places promised. Absolute relief when I ran around the corner to see a Rabbies mini van waiting. Inside, only two people, a German couple who spoke little English plus our tour guide Stuart who had a glorious Scottish accent, how the German couple understood a word out of his mouth I have no idea. Being an introvert I was kinda relieved that I wouldn’t have to make small talk with people I didn’t know, that I could just sit back and enjoy the tour. Probs why I don’t have many friends…

Stuart was funny as hell, pretty sure humour is part of the Scottish DNA. I did make the mistake of saying I preferred Edinburgh to Glasgow, never tell a weegie that, you’ll get left on the side of the road, nearly… oh a weegie, what people call the local Glaswegians… the dork in me just thought it was too close to wedgie and got into a giggle fit, they unfortunately are part of my families DNA.

On the way to Stirling Castle I learnt the most important Gaelic saying, “Slainte Mhath”, sounds like slanger va, the Gaelic language is stranger than Geordie… anyway, it means Cheers. Next to “where’s the toilets?”, the most useful thing to know in any language! Stu was full of other info about Glasgow, a nerd like me laps it up. Glasgow used to be the second biggest city in the UK after London, mainly due to tobacco imports and shipbuilding. It used to have over 40 shipyards and famous ships like the QEII, Queen Mary and the Britannia were built in Glasgow. But NOT the Titanic, built in Belfast, Ireland. And if you ask the Irish, they built it, an Englishman sunk it! So apparently Margaret Thatcher is the reason Glasgow declined from the 60’s, weegie’s say she hated Scotland so she closed all the manufacturing plants and purposely saw it fall into decline, how can someone possibly hate Scotland?!? But I guess they don’t call her the Iron Lady for nothing. Jump to now, only 4 shipbuilders are left in Glasgow. Kinda thought the invention of planes might have affected the shipbuilding industry but eh, what do I know.

So what else did the fabulous Stu have to tell about the half dodgy Glasgow? Apparently there’s amazing shopping, all the high end stores people travel from all over for. Too bad I’m broke… Two of the biggest “football” teams in the UK, the Celtics and the Rangers are from Glasgow. Too bad I don’t like soccer (love the real football!).

After an information overload, we did a quick stop for pics of Stirling Castle from afar before heading up the hill. Shameless selfie day. Thanks to the wind for making me look even more shite..

Being the off season in all of the UK, I was the first visitor into Stirling Castle that day. The German couple disappeared in the other direction?!? The free guided tour seemed like the go, and for the first 5 minutes I was the only person on the tour, knowledgeable Scottish guide all to myself to ask all the silly questions, awesome sauce! But the excitement was short lived, about 10 Americans then joined the tour. Ugh, year of not caring so will ask the silly questions anyway, if I can get a damn word in! Can’t remember the tour guides name so let’s call him Duncan, Dunc had the patience of a saint, I would have locked the Americans in the dungeon 10 minutes into the tour… Dunc was another awesome and funny Scottish dude, knew all the things about the Castle, but then I guess that is his job… quick run down on what I can remember about Stirling Castle, feel like I should use dot points but that would be waaay nerdy, here goes anyway: no one knows exactly when the castle was built but there are stories of it being THE Camelot from the King Arthur stories (coolies!!!!!); If you controlled the castle and the bridge across the river below, you controlled Scotland, being the first visitor, does that mean I controlled Scotland for a microsecond??? Hmm…; William Wallace (i.e. Braveheart) took the Castle momentarily during his reign/crusade/rebellion; the Bonnie Prince Charles (yep, from the Outlander series) tried to take the castle but was way too polite to the locals and agreed to not put his canons in the church and instead chose to bomb the castle from an open field right in front of the castle’s fort armed with a line of 8 cannons, yeah, that worked out well…; uh, lots of Kings called James owned the castle and added bits and pieces all over the place to try impress their queens; and finally, the castle was used by the British Army for ages and they totally stuffed it up, knocking down all the good bits and making it their own personal man cave; then the people who care about history stepped in and restored it to its previous glory. Noice. The thing I learnt about Scotland that was most intriguing, the unicorn is their national animal!! All the Royal symbols in the castle were adorned with unicorns, a symbol of purity and innocence. And according to the fake maiden in the castle, as rare as true love!! Pretty sure both are a myth. But in saying that, I did meet my knight in shining armour….

Back on the bus and we’re off to our lunch stop while winding past lochs and the most gorgeous Scottish countryside. Could have stopped every 5 seconds for a pic. The town of Stirling itself is picture perfect, all those beautiful cottages and quaint streets you see on Moving to the Country. Like the town of Stirling in Adelaide, it costs a pretty penny to live there. First place we actually stopped, Loch Venachar. I think we just call them lakes in Australia but a Loch is so much cooler… and this one, breathtaking. I’m in love with Scottish trees, Scottish water, Scottish grass (the stuff on the ground), love everything Scottish. Raw beauty.

Back on the bus (dance move of the day) and still heading to lunch, another little stop at Loch Achary… this place could not possibly get any more beautiful. I feel like maybe in another life I was a Scottish Highlander, just feel like this place is home. Like when I’m at the beach, I can exhale. And I LOVE Scottish cows, from a purely admirable perspective, although I did wonder how tasty the would be…

And yep, you guessed it, back on the bus with next stop the village of Aberfoyle. Hoping it’s nothing like the Aberfoyle Park in South Australia because let’s be honest, that place is a shit hole! Aberfoyle in Scotland is of course gorgeous. Dining by myself at Fairies, only a half dodgy pub, but the non dodgy chicken, bacon and leek pie was the little bit of chill I needed after a hectic run around morning. Even I, with a bottomless pit of a stomach couldn’t fit it all in…

Aaaaand we’re back on the bus, heading to the Trossachs National Park and Loch Lomond. As we head to the Loch, we pass through a town called Drymen, this time the name says it all. Back in the day (not sure exactly which day…) but the women of the town were so fed up with their men drinking all their wages they convinced the mayor to ban alcohol consumption and sales in the town. Ahhhh, yeah, I’m on the side of the men on this one… how they convinced the mayor, crazy… as Stu was telling the story we passed a pub, guess the dry thing didn’t last all that long…

As we enter into the Trossachs, considered the highlands in miniature, Stu picks the perfect moment to crank the Braveheart theme music and the speech with the most infamous line ever delivered by an Aussie, “tell our enemies that they may take our lives, but they’ll never take our freedom“. Well played Stu. Passing by Doune Castle, otherwise known as Castle Leoch from Outlander, Stu took a moment to clarify that he was in fact second in line to play Jamie, given how similar they look… yeah mate, and I look just like Scarlett Johansson…

Arriving at Loch Lomond, it was another wow moment. The rain was rolling in but it just added to the magic of the place. No wonder the Lochs have stories about monsters living in them, they seem other worldly. With the rain no longer just rolling but crashing down, Stu dropped us in the local town of Balmaha to either frequent the local cafe for a hot drink or be a massive dork of a tourist and trek around the Loch, can guess which one I chose… and lucky me I stumbled across a beautiful little farm house, right on the Loch. Maybe in a other life, or possibly this one, I could happily live in a little farm house, tend to my sheep, bake bread and have a hoard of Scottish rug rats… yeah, another life…

Back on be bus for the hundredth time and we’re bound for Glengoyne Distillery, can’t imagine anything better than Scottish whiskey to warm a cold and weary traveler. Stu took the time to chat more about Glasgow, apparently it’s the next Hollywood, with Brad Pitt filming the zombie flick World War Z there a few years back, and of course, Stu was once again up for the role! Dude sure does have tickets on himself but somehow rather than coming off as arrogant, the Scottish accent just makes it all rather charming!! And the final tidbit of info from Stu, about 30% of all Scottish people are red heads. Actually not surprised at all, I do recall sitting on the bus yesterday and musing at being surrounded by so many redheads I thought I might have interrupted a convention.

Arriving at Glengoyne, the place looked like it was destined for the front of a postcard. Gorgeous. I would have taken more time to appreciate it all but the whiskey was a waiting!

With a first tasting of a 12 year old whiskey, single malt (single cos its from one distillery and malt cos it’s made only from barley), it was then onto a tour. Interesting stuff about making spirit from the vapor of the germinated barley then distilling… for more detail, google it. Really don’t remember the process, just that the place smelt like cat food?!? Awesome tour though. Even more awesome, tasting the 18 year old whiskey at the end, smooth as. Forgot how much I enjoy a good whiskey. Still love my gin through and through but I reckon there might be a time and place for whiskey in the future. Wishing I had the funds to purchase a whole bottle of the 18 year old, I settled for a wee bottle, the equivalent of a single Holly pour, and then for the final time that day, back on the bus!!

Stu must have been milked of information, instead of the normal chit chat, it was his playlist of Coldplay, U2, then to my dismay, Ed Sheeran, that stuff hurts my ear drums.

Back in Glasgow, I took the subway and walked to meet Kyles in Ashton Lane for dinner. In the West End of Glasgow, I started to realise I had Glasgow all wrong!! Not only beautiful ornate buildings, but gorgeous shops and streets, beautifully lit and abuzz with funky bars and restaurants. Ahhh, so that’s where you’ve been hiding Glasgow!

After a yummo share platter at Ubiquitous Chip and a bottle of wine, we once again called it a night and Ubered back to the hotel… but neither of us were quite ready for the night to be over so convinced the dude on reception to get us some gin and Elderflower cheesecake from the closed kitchen and smiled sweetly at the bar man as we popped a bottle of red in our handbag and headed to our room.

Tuesday 15th January 2019.

Half dodgy

Another 5.30am wake up call for a 9am EasyJet flight to Glasgow, we definitely took for granted living 15 minutes from the airport in Adelaide. A flight out of Gatwick means a bus to Brixton Station, a tube to Victoria station then the half hour Gatwick Express which comes with the hefty price tag of £20, that’s about 40 bucks, must stop doing conversions…

What should have been a cruisey trip to the airport and a quick flight turned into a race against time to connect power at my apartment in Prospect by Wednesday so a photographer could take pics and the apartment could be on the market by the 17th… hmmm, I do like to make things hard for myself! So after calls to Simply Energy – needed a meter number – call SA Power Networks – can’t find the meter number – trawl through a million emails and with bum in seat on the plane finally submit an application for AGL to connect by the 16th, literally hitting submit as the plane is taxing down the runway, phew… nothing like trying to organise an apartment for sale from the other side of the world.

Finally in Glasgow, for me it’s into the city for a day of exploring with Kyles off to work to show them how it’s done. Having done zero research on what to do in Glasgow, besides search for Jamie from Outlander, thank god for the Trip Advisor top 10 list of things to do. Three days, surely I can get them all done??

Having decided to be a lazy arse and take the super tourist shortcut of using the Hop On Hop Off bus to see the sites, blonde Holly forgot that in an off season they probs don’t run too often. So after standing at a bus stop for too long, I finally read the schedule, oh, bus will be here in an hour… Decided to leg it to the Cathedral and Necropolis, 25 minutes, why not. With zero workouts since arriving, I needed to work off the ribs and wings anyway.

So here’s where the half dodgy perspective of Glasgow arose, all googles fault really. The google route took me through some questionable streets where things looked mighty dodgy and I wondered where the hell I had landed. From first floor up, beautiful old ornate buildings, but ground floor, dodgy looking shops with laminated hand written signs in the windows. Note how I’ve conveniently taken pics from first floor up..

Once I found the Cathedral and Necropolis I was jaw droppingly stunned (yes I know droppingly isn’t a word but it works). The Cathedral was gorgeous, as expected, but the Necropolis was like nothing I’ve ever seen before. Wow.

Like how I eat my dinner, saving the best for last, I explored the Cathedral first, and it was stunning. Like the Gothic architecture of Westminster Abbey but without all the gaudy gold everywhere. In its simplicity, I liked it better than the Abbey. And unlike the Abbey, photos were allowed so I got my photographer vibe on and pretended I knew what I was doing. Haven’t downloaded the SLR pics yet so just iPhone pics for now. Considering how crap an iPhone takes pictures, and how gorgeous the Cathedral looks in the pics I did take, you can imagine how stunning it was for reals…

So after being directed to some dodgy public toilets in a back alley car park, and surviving, I ventured into the Necropolis. I guess that’s a fancy word for a cemetery on a hill… or wait, Google says a Necropolis is “a cemetery, especially a large one belonging to an ancient city”. Coolies.

Wandering up the winding paths to the top, and having to back track a few times when I ended up back the bottom, I was in awe of just how gorgeous it was. And moving. I always find myself emo at a cemetery but this time reading tombstone dedications that dated back to the 1800’s and marveling at the sculptures that adorned the graves, I was emo in a good way. Love and loss is eternal. No one, no matter how rich or poor, is faced with the challenge. Of course, it makes a difference when you can afford to erect a 20 foot monument to the person you love, guess it makes it seem like they had more of an impact on the world. A madly emotional time and actually thankful I was by myself so I didn’t have to speak or try put into words how I was feeling. Was also glad the Necropolis wasn’t in Finland where the sun doesn’t rise, was getting creepy vampire vibes and I ain’t no Buffy… wish I was… lots and lots of shameless selfies, one of my fave places I’ve been to.

Also some gorgeous views across Glasgow that were quite in contrast – in one direction, what looked like the blue collar district with smoking chimneys then in the other direction, old Glasgow, with the Cathedral and beautiful old buildings adorning the skyline.

Once again I could have stayed for hours but although I was rugged up in thermals, scarves and a kick arse winter jacket, I was freeeeeezing. Standing in the rain, I found the nearest coffee shop and bolted. Crap coffee but good WiFi. Booked my tour for the next day and did life maintenance. Probs spent way too long there considering I only paid £1.80 for the coffee.

Working through my Trip Advisor list, next stop was the Glasgow Science Centre. Although shut, today I was more interested in seeing the architecture then being a nerd. Have nearly nerded myself out on this trip. Was all proud for getting the bus, then missed my bloody stop and had to walk in freezing wind back to the docks where the science centre sat. Uh, really?? My reaction. Couple of silver domes that were kinda rusty. Hindsight, my lack of interest was probs more to do with being freezing and hungry. I’m sure a happy tourist would have found them pretty cool…

I had planned to get over to the transport museum, another supposed architectural masterpiece, but walking across the bridge and feeling frost bite developing on my hands, I decided a far away dodgy pic would do… and one from Google so future me could kick myself for not visiting…

At this point, I really should have given in and caught an Uber to my next stop but I’m stubborn as hell and kinda broke… so once again freezing and walking through dodgyville I was pleasantly surprised to stumble on some pretty cool street art. Ok, so maybe Glasgow has some charm.

I believe in signs from the heavens above so when I saw a cafe lit up with fairy lights I knew it was my next stop, then when I saw the name of the place, I knew someone up there was having a laugh… What was no joke was how delicious the French onion soup was, look at this and feel your mouth water…

Finally at Trip Advisors #1 stop, Kelvinhall, Glasgow’s infamous museum. Having had my fill of museums, I instead stood and marveled at the gorgeous building until the sun peeked through and once again I was stunned by how gorgeous the setting was. Wow. In hindsight, should have checked if they had dinosaurs.

Nearing the end of my tether and losing feeling in my fingers, I headed to the University of Glasgow. Kicked myself when I got there. It was like stepping into a real Hogwarts, magical with the yellow glowing windows, gothic architecture and towers. Should have skipped the dodgy silver shells and headed here sooner. Looking like a tired student myself, I felt at home wandering around the uni and stumbling on a beautiful archway hall of fairy lights. More signs from above? Maybe I could find myself finishing my psych honours here??? Do love a Scottish accent and Glasgow is only half dodgy…

Somehow being colder than when I was in Finland foot deep in snow, I called it a day and headed to the Horseshoe Bar to wait for Kyles. Another Trip Advisor recommended place to visit, I kinda expected more… yeah it had a massively long horseshoe shaped bar but the place was kinda dodgy. I did at this point think that maybe it was me that was dodgy, or at least my mood was… one non dodgy thing to come out of the day, banoffee Digestives biscuits, yuuuuum…. defs didn’t do enough walking to burn them all off!

Monday 14th January 2019.

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